The cacophony of the gulls,
seals and sea lions and the stench of the bird poop and kelp beds is what
greets us each morning. Wharf #2 rises above I Sea Blues and the vehicles
rattle down the pier from the wee hours of the morning heading to the fish
markets at the end or one of the restaurants to empty the garbage bins. The Sand
Bar restaurant patrons have a bird’s eye view of us and we feel their gaze. The
crane whirs to life and the clang of the block and tackle is constant. This is boat living
– this is Monterey.
I Sea Blues & Wharf 2 |
The city has a vibrant past. Famous
people and colorful characters, extremely diverse. Cannery Row was the one-time center of the
sardine packing industry and was immortalized in John Steinbeck’s novel. Today,
you can still see the remnants of those times but the converted factories are
now gift shops, seafood restaurants and bars. The aquarium at the end of the
strip is a filled with marine mammals and plants on display in underwater and
interactive exhibits. This is Monterey.
Aquarium and Cannery Row |
Six days in the area and we have well-worn shoes and a new appreciation of all things local. Fisherman’s wharf was once an active wholesale fish market and is now full of lively restaurants and hawkers trying to get one to sample their clam chowder. Each place touts theirs as the best. Sardines and king crab legs from the Time Bandit, of Deadliest Catch fame, at Delmonico’s was high on our list of favorites. The touristy gift shops all carry the same kitschy merchandise and fortunately for living small we are not easily tempted to purchase anything. This is Monterey.
Fisherman's Wharf |
Carmel was easily accessed via the convenient MST transit system. An afternoon of walking thru the high end shops, wine tasting rooms and wealthy community was enjoyable but we were happy to return to Cannery Row, Fisherman’s Wharf and I Sea Blues. This is Monterey.
The Sardine Factory |
Steinbeck Monument |
“The tide goes out imperceptibly. The boulders show and seem to rise
up and the ocean recedes leaving little pools, leaving wet weed and moss and
sponge, iridescence and brown and blue and China red. On the bottoms lie the
incredible refuse of the sea, shells broken and chipped and bits of skeleton,
claws, the whole sea bottom a fantastic cemetery on which the living scamper
and scramble.”
- John Steinbeck, Cannery Row
- John Steinbeck, Cannery Row
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